Thailand Travelogue: My Last Night in Bangkok, The Siam’s Rock Star Appeal and Dinner at a Private Residence

Earlier this year the Tourism Authority of Thailand invited me to come visit the country and create our first ever Asian guide for GayCities. In addition I wrote about my experience for Queerty, National Geographic and BBC Travel.

 The following travelogue retraces highlights from my final day there.

We returned to Bangkok for one last night. But before catching our flights back to California, New York, London and Toronto, we personally with the Tourism Authority in Bangkok (above) to personally thank them for their hospitality.

That night we stayed at the chic Le Meridien, located a couple of blocks from Bangkok’s gay strip.

But our job was not done quiet yet. We made one last hotel site tour of The Siam, which was still under construction when we visited. We even had to wear a hard hat! Branded as “the first urban resort in Bangkok,” The Siam has a real rock star quality going for it. Though it may be hard to picture this luxury resort as a family-owned business, The Siam was conceived by the Sukosol family, the Royal Tenenbaums of Thailand.

Bejeweled and eccentric, matriarch Kamala Sokosol lives next door to the biggest gay bathhouse in Bangkok and has donated over $1 million to charity. If she’s the Liza Minelli of Thailand, then her daughter Marisa is the Barbra Streisand, the vocal prodigy and recording artist.

Brother Kriss Sukosol is one of Thailand’s biggest rock stars, who also happened to have nabbed the country’s equivalent of an Oscar in 2006. His brother Sukie, however, is considered the Renaissance man of the family. He founded the biggest record label in Asia then sold it to Sony. Since then he has written an inspirational book, produced and starred in his own reality show and found a following as a street photographer.

The Sukosol children have put together their precocious talents, not to mention mom’s several millions, to bring to life the modern and edgy Siam.

Remember those iconic Jim Thompson homes? Well, The Siam designers have incorporated four authentic Jim Thompson houses in the urban resorts. Two of the houses have been remodeled into guest accommodations and two of the houses have been converted into the onsite restaurant overlooking the river.

On our last night, we were invited to the private residence of the general manager of The Siam. There we had a first taste of what the chef of The Siam had in store for the restaurant. At that soiree, I got to meet the designer of the original bed supperclubs and the promoter who managed to bring Lady Gaga to Bangkok.

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Thailand Travelogue: Riding Elephants Through the Four Seasons Tented Camps in the Golden Triangle

Earlier this year the Tourism Authority of Thailand invited me to come visit the country and create our first ever Asian guide for GayCities. The phenomenal travel connoisseur Carlos Melia took me, YouTuber Davey Wavey and colleagues from Pink Triangle Press, Passport magazine and dot429 around Bangkok, Chiang Mai and the Golden Triangle region showing us the shiniest gems Thailand has to offer. The following travelogue retraces even more highlights from my eighth day there.

Towards the end of our Thailand journey we ventured to the Golden Triangle region and spent two wonderful nights at the Four Seasons Tented Camp. To get there we had to take a tiny boat through a river. Immediately upon arrival we were greeted by the entire staff, two of the elephants that reside onsite and yummy cocktails.

This Four Season resort made up of only 15 tents, all thrusted up on a mountain. For $2,000 a night you get your own tent with a king-sized bed and a marble bathtub, outdoor massages overlooking the valley and an elephant ride through the jungle!

One of the most exclusive stays in the world, the Tented Camps were featured on the cover of Conde Nast Traveler in December 2011 and had just welcomed Reese Witherspoon the weekend before we arrived.

On the way to the spa.

Open air spa overlooking the valley.

Our first night there we decided to celebrate by taking shots of this cobra whiskey. Yup, that’s a real cobra coiled inside, biting the tail of a scorpion. Yaa dong, or alcoholic remedies, are popular elixirs in Thailand.

The staff of the Tented Camps set up a nice candle-lit al fresco dinner for us. After dinner we gathered to light traditional Thai floating lamps, or jhom loy, setting them free to float up into the dark sky.

The following morning we got up early to go on our elephant trek through the jungle and river. Watch the video below to see what I was seeing while mounted on my elephant. Afterwards I got a full-body mahout massage. A mahout is a person dedicated to training an elephant for human passengers and spends several hours a day riding them, so the massage is intended  to relieve the muscles strained after riding an elephant, especially the inner thighs.

That night we had dinner with an elephant expert who worked at the nearby elephant foundation. He told us that the gentle giants were some of the most intelligent animals on the planet. In recent research, he had found that when an elephant looked at himself in the mirror, he recognized that it was his own reflection and not another animal standing in front of him. That type of cognizance has only been found in dolphins, apes (us) and elephants. After several minutes of checking herself out in a mirror, a baby elephant ripped out some nearby flowers and put them on her head.

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Thailand Travelogue: The Tribal Women of Padaung Village

Earlier this year the Tourism Authority of Thailand invited me to come visit the country and create our first ever Asian guide for GayCities. The phenomenal travel connoisseur Carlos Melia took me, YouTuber Davey Wavey and colleagues from Pink Triangle Press, Passport magazine and dot429 around Bangkok, Chiang Mai and the Golden Triangle region showing us the shiniest gems Thailand has to offer. The following travelogue retraces even more highlights from my seventh day there.

Another side trip we took while in the Chiang Mai region was visiting the Padaung Village, commonly referred to as the long neck village because of the women’s coiled neck gear. Although it seems that their necks are being stretched out by the spring-like coils, it’s actually their collar bones that are being crushed down under the weight of the neck brace. Eek!

The women were all very friendly and seemed quite used to seeing foreign visitors snapping photos of them. It felt a little awkward snooping into these women’s huts especially after spending the week in various luxury hotels… But I tried not to let that foreign, privileged perspective cloud the way I viewed these women, their traditions and the culture they were brought up in.

I did a little bit of research afterwards and came across this great article by a Washington Post scribe who visited the same village in 2009. “A Village or a Zoo?” tackles the moral issue of these women’s entrapment in these for-profit villages for tourists and the torturous procedures their culture has brought upon them.

Although I strongly lean towards believing that human rights are universal, I also understand that it’s pointless to try and impose my belief system on a foreign culture without coming off as utterly naive as to their experience and self-righteous, bathing in Western priviledge. After all, what do I know?

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Thailand Travelogue: Playing with Tiger Cubs in Tiger Kingdom

Earlier this year the Tourism Authority of Thailand invited me to come visit the country and create our first ever Asian guide for GayCities. The phenomenal travel connoisseur Carlos Melia took me, YouTuber Davey Wavey and colleagues from Pink Triangle Press, Passport magazine and dot429 around Bangkok, Chiang Mai and the Golden Triangle region showing us the shiniest gems Thailand has to offer. The following travelogue retraces more highlights from my seventh day there.

While traveling to Golden Triangle from the Chiang Mai region, we decided to make a stop that was not part of the itinerary. Tiger Kingdom is a Thai zoo where guests get to spend a couple of minutes inside a cage with tiger cubs or full-sized tigers. Apparently the animals (they also have a lion onsite) are treated ethically and get taken care of for most of their mature lives. Oftentimes, it’s better for these tigers to be kept in captivity because they wouldn’t survive a day in the wild.

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Thailand Travelogue: The Beautiful, Bizarre and Unconventional White Temple and Black Temple in Chiang Rai

Earlier this year the Tourism Authority of Thailand invited me to come visit the country and create our first ever Asian guide for GayCities. The phenomenal travel connoisseur Carlos Melia took me, YouTuber Davey Wavey and colleagues from Pink Triangle Press, Passport magazine and dot429 around Bangkok, Chiang Mai and the Golden Triangle region showing us the shiniest gems Thailand has to offer. The following travelogue retraces highlights from my seventh day there.

Wat Rong Khun (White Temple) by Chalermchai Kositpipat

On our way from Chiang Mai to the Golden Triangle we stopped to visit two more temples. So far on our journey we had seen beautiful, ornate, larger-than-life temples in both Bangkok and Chiang Mai, but these two temples in Chiang Rai were a little more… unconventional. The White Temple, for example, had Predator crawling out of the ground.

The pop culture references were more apparent inside the shrine where photos weren’t allowed. In the back mural, colorful illustrations of American superheroes like Spiderman mingled with Japanese video game characters from Pokemon. It was like an 80s Saturday morning cartoon smorgasbord. Apparently Chalermchai Kositpipat, the conceptual artist behind this magnificent art piece, wanted children to be interested in going to temple just as much as they are interested in watching TV or playing video games. He wanted to make temples a part of the contemporary cultural conversation.

Baan Dam (The Black Temple) by Thawan Duchanee

If the White Temple is silly and child-like, the Black Temple is the complete opposite: surreal and macabre. The temple serves as a cemetery for the discarded art of controversial and mysterious Thai artist Thawan Duchanee.

The charred wood, the use of skeletons and bones, the over-the-top phallic imagery all made it seem as if I was walking around a set of the Thai version of True Blood.